In Complete Stitches Apex Pouch (stylized APEXpouch), the Solution to Scrap Hoarding

So, I like to think I've gotten better at determining accurate yardage per project. Yes, patterns list an amount to purchase, but they normally (yet wisely) estimate more than you'll actually need. Still, I think figuring out how to get away with less is a learnable skill, not even through creating more efficient cutting layouts, just knowing intuitively beforehand. Minimizing waste gives me some peace of mind.

The keyword is "minimizing" here, not "eliminating." With a few of the pants I made this year, I've been able to reduce some yardage but there's always a little leftover because my legs are always shorter than what any pattern will draft for. I was getting a little bothered by the neatly rectangular scraps I'd accumulated with no plans to use them, but then! I found a perfectly-shaped bag pattern in the Apex Pouch by In Complete Stitches. The design is just right for using up those larger scraps I wouldn't want to cut up for patchwork pieces, and outer pockets' geometry lends itself to colorblocking well. A great application for using smaller scraps and combining different fabrics. Finally, that it's a bag pattern means my bottom weight twills and denims would be useful for maintaining strength and structure.

I made the large drawstring version with the snap + loop closure on the outer pocket, twice. Other views include a zippered opening instead of the drawstring, or securing the outer pocket to the bag with a vertical line of stitching, for example. I appreciate the number of options you get because the details separate it from being a simple rectangular box corner bag, which is what it is at its core. That's not to say it's an absolute beginner bag pattern because, depending on which view you choose, there are some meticulous steps that can require a degree of finesse. It may be easy in the sense that you're only ever sewing straight lines, but it's not a mindless sew.

 

The instructions are good! They're clear and descriptive. I found them a bit overwhelming to navigate at first, because there's just so much customization, but they're not difficult to understand. They do a kind of "choose your own adventure" thing where they tell you to turn to a certain page to get to the next step, depending on which options you're going with. Another customization thing is, instructions give tips about interfacing and where to apply it, as it is said to be not strictly necessary, but encouraged depending on your fabric selection. I personally prefer to interface the outer pockets for maintaining the bag's shape; the black/yellow bag was interfaced but with one that was too lightweight. It slouches under its own weight and I could only photograph it properly after I stuffed it with bubble wrap. The bottom of each bag stays flat because I inserted some plastic canvas to keep it stiff.

There's some good advice about interfacing making certain areas too bulky; on the grey/black bag, I should have cut away the interfacing around the metal snap. It's too thick there and I wasted a couple snaps trying to apply them. The pointed tab on the angled pocket didn't need the fusible either as it's unnecessarily stiff now. But I do think thicker fusible was appropriate for the D-ring carriers I stitched on, in case I want to include a detachable crossbody strap in the future. That area's going to be under some downward pulling and stress, after all. I reused the pattern piece for the pointed tab. The downward arrow makes for a nice recurring visual motif, I think! The carriers were an afterthought, because if I had planned to install them from the start I'd have simply sandwiched them in the side seam. But it turns out that I like the look of them and will continue to do it this way on purpose, even if it's not quite as easy as the alternative way.

 

The only element I'm not thrilled about is the interior angled pocket. While it looks fine when the bag is turned inside-out, shown below, it isn't taught against the lining when it's properly flipped to the inside. I find that stuff falls out if it all the time. It might as well not be there at all. I imagine the drawstring doesn't help because, by gathering all the fabric to the center, the pocket gapes even wider. Bit of a bummer considering I gave myself a pep talk like, "Don't be lazy, you shouldn't omit the pocket because you're really going to regret it when you can't find your keys among the gum packets and old receipts." Well, past self, I regret to report that it's still happening despite my bare-minimum attempt to stay organized.

 

For the drawstring I used one of those toggles with the spring inside, instead of threading two cords through the casing. It seemed like a more secure way to keep the bag closed. And sure, you can tie the cords together to keep the bag from opening, but the toggle is a lot more convenient.

I never considered this before, but the shape of the toggle does matter in terms of how easy and comfortable it is to grip while opening and closing. The one above works just fine for me. I don't have a comprehensive list of the best shapes, but what I will tell you is to stay away from the flat, disc-shaped ones. In short, they suck. I tried them and they're difficult to grip while pressing down on the springy button part. You try to pinch down, and the toggle naturally wants to slip and be held flat, like the most normal way you would hold a single coin. And then you've lost your hold on the button. They're generally too small and really not designed well.

And that's all I have for now. In summary, I think this pattern is well written and a great way to level up a regular drawstring bag, something every sewist must have made at some point or other. It could be a way to get some extra practice in if you're a confident beginner, or if you're like me, a way to warm up and ease into sewing again. I needed something that's easy enough but not so dead simple because I got a new sewing machine that I'm trying to get used to. Muscle memory of working on my mechanical, clearance sale Singer with only two stitch patterns is screwing with me. I'm glad I picked these Apex Pouches instead of risking my patience on a garment. I mean, they're fun to make on their own and don't need to be relegated to warm up/scrapbusting projects. Although, the scrap pile beckons me yet...

Notes/Summary:

• Size Large
• Drawstring closure variation
  
• Snap + Loop pocket variation
• Angled interior pocket (will skip next time)
  
• Added strap carriers and D-rings
• Inserted plastic canvas in the bag bottom
  
  

Update 10/22: I made another! Same size and view, minus the interior pocket. I didn't have any fusible interfacing left so I lined the outer pocket with a stiff denim.

 

Nothing's substantially different, but this I time I used a newly-purchased edgestitch foot to get that neat topstitching. I'd been resistant to buying one because I'm pretty good at eyeballing the stitch line with a standard foot, but I have to admit that I've seen the light. Previously, topstitching wasn't hard, and now it's mindless. I might hate being wrong but not more than I like playing with my new toys.